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Plumbing

A Word or two about PLUMBING (and I don’t refer here to ANYTHING with Richard Nixon’s Presidency) A Word or two about PLUMBING (and I don’t refer here to ANYTHING with Richard Nixon’s Presidency)

Your plumbing system consists of two basic parts: (a) fresh, clean POTABLE water and (b) waste water (gray water/sewage/etc)---BASICALLY-  bringing it IN and carrying it OUT.

SUPPLY pipes in modern construction should be COPPER lines that are joined by relatively non-toxic SOLDER.  Copper water lines can be either HARD copper or SOFT copper, depending on use and need for flexibility.  One of the main benefits of copper lines is that native minerals/etc do not tend to cling to/attach themselves to/clog up the interior of supply lines; also, they do not RUST, which is a MAJOR plus. Since copper lines are relatively thin-walled, they must be insulated against freezing in unprotected areas, such as a crawl space below a pier-and-beam home.

Often in older homes in our area-e.g.- Tarrytown/Brykerwoods or any area of town where the ages of the structures may be over 50 – 60 y/o+, the supply lines will be made of galvanized STEEL.  The galvanization process is reasonably effective at retarding RUST, but steel lines DO present problems with scale build-up INSIDE the lines, which can result in corrosion and, more often intolerably LOW water pressure.  Oddly enough, with two side-by-side homes built 70 years ago and plumbed by the same Plumber, using identical material, ONE home may experience NO notable loss of water pressure over time, and the 2nd may need extensive modernization to restore adequate supply pressure-go figure.  When water pressure drops in older homes, it is RARELY required to replace ALL the supply plumbing:  an experienced Master Plumber can frequently locate the most severely occluded lines, replace them, and restore adequate service.

When evaluating an older home with galvanized steel lines, a VERY important test is to operate ALL accessible water valves to determine reasonable water pressure.

Another very important test (THIS time usually more significant with newer slab-floored structures) is to locate the water meter (usually near the curb); lift the lid, and determined WHICH gauge (glass-covered dial) applies to the home you’re interested in (usually the dial ON THE SAME SIDE AS THAT STRUCTURE).  With ALL KNOWN valves turned OFF (ice makers/dishwashers/hose bibs/etc)- watch the sensitivity indicator on the dial (most common is a red or black triangle) for at least 5-10 minutes.  The slightest water movement will (albeit very SLOWLY, sometimes) rotate the triangle.  Hidden water movement of this type is often found to be due to a leaking flapper valve within a toilet tank or an unnoticed leaking hose bib, but this movement MAY be due to a SUB-SLAB water leak, which can cause FOUNDATION problems, and be very expensive/troublesome to diagnose and repair.
Low water pressure at a SINGLE fixture-e.g.-bathroom faucet/kitchen faucet- are most often the result of buildup at the removable aerator or the fixture itself-repair is usually simple and inexpensive.
35 psi to 65 psi water pressure is common; less than this range is inconvenient for household uses, and more than this range may cause unnecessary supply line LEAKS.

PVC (plastic) lines are most common in modern construction for removal of waste water:  like copper, interior wall buildup is rare.  These lines are also relatively inexpensive, and easy to join and/or replace.

Proper pre-construction inspection (usually by the City/County) assures the proper slope and placement of drain lines, but clogs definitely CAN occur i.e.- The Roto-Rooter man will ALWAYS have work!

Modern, properly installed Septic Systems are very effective, and much less troublesome than their older counterparts.  Septic systems are ALWAYS best evaluated by a Septic specialist (such as Rainbow Septic Systems in our area) as opposed to a regular Plumber or Home Inspector.  At the time of sale, wise $ is spent to have the system pumped and examined by a real PROFESSIONAL.

As a rule of thumb, if you are (like MOST city dwellers) connected to a municipal sewer system, your liability ends at the point of connection with the City Sewer System.

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